The Graycliff Hotel

On my way to the 2012 Habanos Festival in Havana and stopped off in Nassau to catch the early flight tomorrow. Had a great smoke and dinner at the Graycliff Hotel which is a luxurious old hotel in downtown Nassau.

Their cigars are made by the former head of the El Laguito factory in Havana and the blend is a closely held secret.... and for good reason, these cigars were delicious. Before dinner at The Humidor Restaurant (in the Hotel) I had a Grand Cru cigar which was subtle and spicy. After dinner I lit up an Espresso cigar, which had a real kick and very strong after taste of, you guessed it, coffee.

The dinner was incredible with a great appetizer / salad bar and the main course was multiple helpings of steak, chicken and other meats being sliced off a giant skewer at your table.

I decided to walk back to the Hilton from the Graycliff and although it's only about a mile away, it's in a dark and seedy part of town. If you plan the same visit, I'd strongly recommend you get a cab after the sun goes down, as some interesting "characters" start to emerge from the shadows.....

Can't wait.....!

Thankyou Alejandro

In celebration of Alejandro, I had this beautiful Unicos this morning....

Inside La Corona Factory, Havana, Cuba

Date: February 25th, 2010
Time: 10:00 AM Eastern 
Location: La Corona Factory, Havana, Cuba

Conditions: Sunny and cool, 65 degrees

After one visits the Plantations it's the Factories where the real magic happens.  Anyone can visit the Partagas factory so today we are going to explore the largest factory in Cuba, La Corona.  It's not open to the public except for Festival attendees.

A single four story building houses over 900 people working on a myriad of brands and vitolas.  More than 40,000 cigars are produced each day and once inside, the noise of rollers and workers is deafening.  Screaming, hollering and even the odd dog barking adds to the excitement!

The efficiency, skill and precision of La Corona ensures the quality and beauty of their cigars.  As you'll see in the video, the construction of the cigar boxes is hypnotic.

It's the characters you meet that make a visit fascinating.  Here's a guy who just followed me around everywhere I went.  Is he Cuban secret service?  Factory Commandant? Nope, he's actually one of the Supervisors who had taken a liking to my shoes!!  BTW they are New Balance Cross Trainers.  On my exit he gave me a copy of the Festival magazine (free as part of the Festival) in exchange for my shoes.  Did he think I'd go barefoot for the rest of the day?


This factory is tightly monitored and so I didn't get accosted by peddlers.  One of the rollers winked at me however when she discovered I was making a video.  


We quickly finish up and begin the drive over to El Laguito, the most exclusive and secretive factory in Cuba.

Vegas Robaina

Date: February 27th, 2010
Time: 1:00 PM Eastern 
Location: Vegas Robaina, somewhere near San Juan y Martinez, Pinar del Rio, Cuba

Conditions: Sunny and cool, 69 degrees

I join the Alexander's gang in the lobby of the Nacionale to board our private bus that will take us to the highlight of my Cuba visit- Vegas Robaina.  Although the trip could take as much as 3 hours one-way, it's worth the experience as I know it will be memorable.  We are destined for the "holy of holies" that hallowed ground in the Pinar where the best tobacco wrapper in the world is produced by the Godfather himself, Don Alejandro Robaina.

We all spread out in the oversized bus and catch up on our sleep after the Festival Habano Gala. It's been two years since my last visit and I had the fortune of spending time with Robaina and having him light one of his cigars for me to smoke.  I acquired over 50 of his boutique product (no fancy labels) which was the best cigar purchase I had ever made.  I still have some of them tucked away in the humidor at Telford's and want to make sure I replenish my stock.

As always, the Cuban guides get lost trying to find the plantation.  We eventually arrive and greeted by Carlito Robaina, Alejandro's 60 something son.  Hugs (and kisses) all around and we make our way to the outdoor dining area for a quick drink (Mulata de Cuba) and smoke.  Carlito and his son (Horoshi) explain that the old man is not well and cannot join us for lunch, BUT perhaps after lunch we can pay him a visit in his house.

The setting is ideal and old-world Cuba.  A small rural garden surrounds us with dogs and chickens wandering in and out.  Robaina's great grand daughters are playing dominoes as we are served roast chicken, pork, black beans and rice.  A typical lunch and somewhat bland, I approach the kitchen and they instantly provide me some locally grown organic habaneros....perfecto!

Carlito disappears with John and returns with some new sizes for us to "consider".  One is affectionately called The Beast!  And what a sight to behold, it's a 60 gauge monster.  Beautifully rolled the feel is exquisite and the smoke is, well, an incredible fusion of flavors.  

Carlito explains the tobacco has been cured for a minimum of 5 years and stored for an additional 2-3 years.  As I strain my jaws to place the big, large, dark puro into my mouth, I remind myself I am a well-adjusted heterosexual man who is perfectly comfortable with something this big in my mouth.

After lunch we enjoy our smokes and discuss Cuba, Obama, Cigars and how we all can't wait for when that damn embargo is dissolved.  Carlito beckons us to Alejandro's house and we make our way into meet with him.  


At first sight I was somewhat surprised as he is very frail and clearly not well.  At 91, his birthday is coming up on March 20th and everyone is looking forward to quiet celebration.  He does still have that twinkle in his eyes and is beaming, warm and inviting as we spend time.  His wife is hovering in the background with a watchful eye and we try to not make him too tired with all the excitement.  He asks us if we approve of his current stock and is there anything he can do to make them better...unbelievable!

This experience is all about the Robaina Family and their faith.  Faith in their religion and family.  Four generations living and working together,  building upon a proud legacy that started over 150 years ago with their plantation and the incredible gift they produce for  us to enjoy.  As I leave Alejandro to go and select some bundles, I know it will be some time before I return and feel honored to have visited with Alejandro and his family.

The drive back to Havana was long and quiet.  I was constantly admiring (and caressing) my newly purchased bundles, coveting them like some new birthday gift.  



Yet another rainstorm has begun.  I leave early tomorrow to return home and to reality.  My mind now switches to figuring out how I will transverse the Customs checkpoints with all the "gifts" I will be transporting....that's a whole other blog entry....

Cohiba Behike Launch (2010)

Date: February 26th, 2010
Time: 8:00 PM Eastern 
Location: ParExpo, Havana, Cuba

Conditions: Cool and breezy, 63 degrees

THE EVENT

It's downright freezing tonight in Havana as I have a quick mojito at the Nacionale before the Gala Event of the 2010 Festival Habano.  It's the launch of "Cohiba's Best Kept Secret", the marketing slogan that's been publicized for months (talk about an oxy-moron) of  a new super-premium cigar.

THE HISTORY

Cohiba was the first name given to tobacco.  When Christopher Columbus arrived in Cuba in 1492 he saw that the Taino Indians would smoke rolled leaves which they called "cohiba" following a ritual celebration.  That ceremony was conducted by a highly respected person of the tribe who was called "Behike".

THE CIGARS

The Cohiba Behike is being represented as the most exclusive line of Cohiba cigars.  It will be produced in extremely limited qualities due to the blend being, for the first time, the "Medio Tiempo", a leaf that provides exceptional character and flavor.  The leaf is very scarce as it is harvested from the two upper leaves of  a sun-grown plant.  Not all plants produce both top leaves and availability is dependent on the dedication, care and attention of each plantation in San Juan y Martinez.

The Behike ring bears the Cohiba Indian head in an embossed paper, including an exclusive security hologram in each one that authenticates these exclusive Habanos.  Each one of the vitolas comes in 10-cigar lacquered box which is a collectors item in itself.

The selected formats are exclusive to Cohiba Behike.  Their heavy ring gauge, in addition to providing excellent burn, will allow the smoker to appreciate and enjoy all the intensity and flavors offered by this very exquisite blend.  

The Behike formats are:

• BHK52:  Ring gauge 52 X 4.69 inches
• BHK 54: Ring gauge 54 X 5.67 inches
• BHK56:  Ring gauge 56 X 6.54 inches

OPINION
When they are released next month, it is rumored that each cigar will retail for $100USD. If these cigars are limited, the actual market price could be a lot higher.  I smoked my first Behike the other day and I will post my review soon.  It is an exceptional smoke (probably better than the Grand Reserva's) and I think Habanos has made a strategic error.  Even the wealthy are watching their pesos, pennies and cents and this extravagance doesn't help.  Frankly, I'd like to see them produce another Siglo VI, perhaps a maduro at a price point that attracts a new group of enthusiasts.

El Templete Restaurant - Cohiba Siglo VI (2009)

Produced: 2009
Tobacco Provence: Vuelta Abajo 
Factory: Partagas
Length: 7 5/8 inches
Ring Gauge: 49
Acquired: Gifted at 2010 Habanos Festival

THE LOCATION
El Templete

Avenida del Puerto #12, corner of Narciso Lopez
Tel. +53 (7) 866 8807
Map

El Templete is a monument in Havana that pays homage to the place where the foundation of the town of San Cristóbal de la Habana was celebrated in 1519. The monument consists of bust of Christopher Columbus (he'd later stumble onto the Americas) and three canvases painted by Jean Baptiste Vermay. It is a Neoclassic building, typical example of colonial architecture.  Close to the Templete, there is a column which replaces a silk-cotton tree, under which the first mass and the first Council of Havana were celebrated.  This is NOT where I had dinner!

The El Templete where I had dinner is the jewel in Old Havana's culinary crown. Its Gallego chef's Arkaitz Etxarte sophisticatedly simple spin on traditional ingredients that result in incredible duck, lobster and dark chocolate brownies that are infused with some kind of spices. The restaurant is at the harbor in Old Havana and make sure to get a table inside but next to the windows so that you can view the boat traffic but escape the fumes from the trucks and buses that pass by.


THE SMOKE
I know this will sound flippant, but people smoke Siglo VI's in Havana as though they are Marlboro Reds!  In my opinion after witnessing their manufacture and sampling many of them over the years, they are consistently the best smoke an enthusiast can trust.  The care and attention to detail in producing these cigars is a source of much pride by Habanos.

During courses I light up a local S VI that was given to me at one of the Conference sessions.  Nobody thinks twice about lighting up inside a restaurant during a meal.  Compared to the barbaric restrictions now enforced in Australia and the US, this is simply heaven.
The local S IV is excellent.  Well rolled, easy draw and the flavor is milder and still complex enough to be interesting.  They retail in Havana at the date of this blog for 11 CUC which is approximately $7 USD compared to the black market price north of $25 back in the US.

Rating: (3) VERY GOOD

(5) Classic, (4) Outstanding, (3) Very Good, (2) Average, (1) Don’t Bother

Humidor: SMOKE NOW

Smoke Now, Smoke Soon:1–3 Years, Put Away:3–7 Years, Vault:7-12 Years, Inheritance Gift:12+ Years

Women in Cigars Celebration - Romeo y Julieta, Julieta (2009)

THE EVENT
To quote the Cubans, a cigar is like a woman, it needs to be admired, caressed and "warmed up" before placing to your lips to enjoy.  As the CEO of Habanos remarked, women are an indispensable part of the Habanos legacy and future.  70% of the people involved in the growing, production, distribution and marketing of cigars are women.  To celebrate women, Habanos developed a vitola especially sized, cured and packaged for women.


THE LOCATION
For the presentation of the new vitolas "Julieta" we are to spend the evening at the Museo de Bellas Artes.  A beautiful modern building just across the street from the Museo de la Revolution... a stark contrast where one can view graphic photos of combat kills and executions by the glorious Cuban army. 

One mid-eighteenth century day in London, the Venetian painter Canaletto found himself a bit strapped for cash and decided that drastic measures had to be taken. Whipping out a handy blade, he sliced in half a rather long landscape he'd painted, to sell both halves separately. Now one half of Chelsea from the Thames hangs in Blickling Hall in Norfolk. The other half is in Havana in the Museo de Bellas Artes.  There are many pieces from from all over the world that reside in this expansive and rather clinical museum.

There is the usual gauntlet of young people we walk through to get our goodie bag and glass of champers.  I stroll around for a little while and discover some Cubano art that is all naked exotic women only wearing flowers in their hair.  A young lady who works for the museum comes up to me and asks in Spanish if I have any questions.  She speaks English and I asked who the painter was...?  She curtly replies it is the greatest impressionist in the world- Jose Rolando Raul Martinez....erhhh, well you get the idea.  She briskly does a 180 and trots off mumbling some form of obscenities under her breath.  I decide to find my table...



We have fairly good seats and settle down for a great dinner which always consists of lobster somewhere on the menu.  All the wines are Spanish a different bottle and cigar is matched for each course.  The final unveiling is for the new Julieta vitola which for a new small smoke is quite delicious and very much designed for women.  Even the aluminium packaging is designed to fit easily into a purse.

THE CIGAR
I wouldn't devote my traditional Saturday afternoon smoke to this stick, but then again, for the 20 minute drive home from the office, it could make for quite the dalliance.  It's smooth, sweet and lively.  It's very well rolled but as I hold the cigar it is just a tad too dainty for me to hold.  I'll definitely gift the pack to L.




As I sample the smoke the ever-present music and dancing begins....these people know how to enjoy life, just hope I can make it back stateside in one piece.


Rating: (2) AVERAGE
(5) Classic, (4) Outstanding, (3) Very Good, (2) Average, (1) Don’t Bother
Humidor: SMOKE NOW
Smoke Now, Smoke Soon:1–3 Years, Put Away:3–7 Years, Vault:7-12 Years, Inheritance Gift:12+ Years

San Juan Y Martinez Tobacco Plantation, Pinar del Rio, Cuba

THE EVENT

We are travelling to the district of Pinar del Rio which is arguably the best tabacco growing region in the world, San Juan y Martinez.  It only occupies a couple of thousand hectares and consists of very small hamlets such as San Luis.  It is in this 20 square mile area where will spend our time, very close to the Vega Robaina.

The drive from Havana can take anywhere from 2 to 3 hours, and today we have a police escort as well as an ambulance in the convoy.  It is a frustrating challenge to travel on the motor-ways in Cuba as there are goats, donkeys, dogs, cars and of-course people just wandering along the road oblivious to the instant peril that could befall them.  

As we saunter along the Soviet-built roads, we pass by reminders of the heroes of the revolution such as Fidel and Che.  We are also reminded of how much the cigar is the DNA of Cuba!

We spend a couple of hours at the plantation of Gerardo Medina Relova.  A delightful man who has devoted his life to the cultivation of tobacco in the Pinar.  All of his tobacco is sent to Cohiba and he is generally recognized as one of the best in Cuba...of-course behind Alejandro Robaina.  I noticed in his living room he had once received the Habanos Man Of the Year award and he proudly lifted it off a table to pose for this picture.

We walked around the plantation and inspected all the steps in tobacco production.  The local workers are friendly and warm and enjoy joking around with us.  

La Casa del Habano, Havana, Cuba

THE PLACE

I'm on my way to an organized city tour as part of the Festival and decide to drop off at the flagship La Casa del Habano store on 5th Avenue.  Richard from Telford's has a locker here and it has a reputation for being the best of the best.  We are to meet Carlito Robaina to confirm lunch with his father on Saturday at Vega Robaina.

The store occupies an entire building and includes multiple lounges, private rooms, alcoves, a bar and an intimate restaurant that serves some of the best grilled lobster in the city.  The diversity and quality of cigars is awe inspiring.  In addition to the established Habanos brands, there are local blends that can only be found in Havana.  

It's impossible to zero in on any one particular cigar and I start to become dis-oriented before John A sits me down to have a cup of coffee.  The small touches are exquisite as I notice the cup of espresso is resting on a cured tobacco leaf.

I explore the back restaurant where I am accosted by one of the staff.  One has to be very respectful of the Cuban's religious devotion and compliance to rules and regulations, which most of the time are created by the person enforcing them.  I have learned that everyone in Cuba has some level of enforcing their will and the easiest way to engage is just to smile and extend your hand in friendship.... they usually melt and embrace your warmth.



If you ever find yourself in Havana and want to visit a quiet establishment where you will receive personal service without the tourists, LCDH on 5th Avenue is the place.

12th Festival Habanos Welcome - Romeo y Julieta Wide Churchill Launch

THE EVENT

Tonight is the welcome event of the Festival and the main event is the launch of a new Romeo y Julieta known as the Wide Churchill.  We are all dressed to the "nines" as we make our way into a beautiful old opera house that has been restored to it's original grandeur.  
What a cosmopolitan group (present company excluded) as it is the elite of the cigar world.... Habanos officials, PGA Golfers, Hollywood "types", people wearing turbans, old guys escorting their grand-daughters, erhhh, "friends" by the arm and of-course Cuban Government officials with an ever-present smirk over their faces.

The evening begins in the Gran Teatro de la Habana right across from the revolution museum.  Totally restored and dressed up for the biggest event of the year, I grab a seat in the very front row of the Teatro.






























The concert is fantastic and features Chuco Valdes as the headliner.  Born in Cuba in 1941, Chuco is a pianist, composer and arranger.  In 1972 he founded the group Irakere, one of the most important latin jazz bands ever formed.  

Chuco is considered one of the top living pianists and composers today and is included in the top four list of best jazz musicians in the world.  The videos capture some incredible and vibrant jazz that is an absolute joy.  He was joined on stage by a delightful singer, Mariza, a captivating entertainer from Lisbon and Ivan Lins, a musician and composer from Rio.
After the concert we ventured next door to enjoy the new Wide Churchill and partake in just a little food and Havana Club...  As we entered the venue, we were welcomed by a line of young delightful greeters, presenting us with our gift bag full of Wide Churchill cigars.

Davidoff Dom Perignon (1978)

Produced: 1978

Made by: Julieta 2

Size: Parejo

Ring Gauge: 47

Length: 7 inches

Purchased: Alexanders, Melbourne, 2005.

“Smoke less, but better and longer – make a cult of it, even a philosophy!”, Zino Davidoff


Today is my birthday and the day before I leave for the 13th Annual Habanos Festival in Havana.  Knowing all to well that I will be sampling a huge variety of incredible Habanos over the next week, I decide to make this smoke a special occasion.

We are having dinner at Taverna Tony's in Malibu.  This is an old reliable place for some great Greek food.  And I am an expert in Greek food, since I was born and raised in Melbourne.... which has the largest population of Greeks outside of Athens.  In fact, I am travelling with a group of Greeks to Havana as part of the Pacific Cigar Group Distributors.


I have been coming to Tony's ever since it was changed from the Tex Mex joint that Ali McGraw started over 25 years ago.  Tony is great and always greets me with open arms, and yes, he is the only 5 foot 300 pound greek guy that I will actually hug.  


Back in the day he would let me and my friends smoke cigars up in the indoor balcony.  We had some really great evenings, with great food and wine, which is always very well stocked.

The Taverna is somewhat of a hangout for the Hollywood crowd (at left Tony is helping Ms. Spears), but don't let that deter you.  It's very private and low-key and the service is spectacular.




THE SMOKE
Of-course any Cuban Davidoff comes with an incredible amount of expectation and promise.  Much of this is due to Davidoff himself.  Synonymous with luxury, the Davidoff brand for years has produced the finest clothes, fragrances and cigars.  Davidoff cigars have been long heralded as the symbol of luxury and decadence.  And they are headquartered in my favorite city, Geneva, home of the Cafe de Paris, Rohr Chocolates, Gerard Pere et Fils, and the UN.

Davidoff was a man with a great sense of humour and a well-developed feeling for the beautiful things in life. An artist; who understood people, and respected them. Who never lost sight of his purpose; to enrich life through enjoying its good things.  Who even as a successful businessman remained true to himself and to his principles. Zino Davidoff believed in simplicity, in the complete enjoyment of life. 

This Dom Perignon I'm smoking (and which Zino is holding in the photo above) lives up to his mission.  It is showing it's over 30 years in age and frankly, it's probably past it's prime, but I can't help feel it's a great smoke.  As I get to the half-way point it strengthens and develops more character.  I only have 8 of these left and decide that perhaps they should be smoked over the next couple of years.  
Another winter storm is starting to hit SoCal and I need to finish my packing for Havana... now where are those ziploc bags?

Rating: (2) AVERAGE

(5) Classic, (4) Outstanding, (3) Very Good, (2) Average, (1) Don’t Bother

Humidor: SMOKE NOW

Smoke Now, Smoke Soon:1–3 Years, Put Away:3–7 Years, Vault:7-12 Years, Inheritance Gift:12+ Years

Partagas Serie D No. 4 Reserva (2000)

Ring Gauge: 50
Length: 4.88 inches
Purchased: Gerard Pere & Fils, Geneva

Date: February 15th, 2010
Time: 11:00 AM Pacific 
Location: Point Dume, Malibu California
Conditions: Sunny and warm, 73 degree



It's President's Day and I'm on the beach watching the Men's Downhill at Whistler.  And even though only .09 second separates the medal winners, it's not very exciting and I yearn for the days of Klammer and Russi.... now they were skiers!

I decide to break into the black lacquered box of Reserva's that I haven't opened in a long time.  When I first smoked one of these back in 2001, I was that impressed as it was extremely mild and somewhat subtle.  

The 8 years in the back of my storage in Mill Valley has served them well.  They are still shiny, spongy firm and the construction is flawless.  I cut with a cat's eye and begin to savor a remarkably good smoke.  Still subtle and mild but with and increased intensity in the finish. I'm going to smoke this down to the very end.

Rating: (3) VERY GOOD
(5) Classic, (4) Outstanding, (3) Very Good, (2) Average, (1) Don’t Bother

Humidor: SMOKE NOW
Smoke Now, Smoke Soon:1–3 Years, Put Away:3–7 Years, Vault:7-12 Years, Inheritance Gift:12+ Years

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