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Saturday, March 06, 2010

Vegas Robaina


Date: February 27th, 2010
Time: 1:00 PM Eastern 
Location: Vegas Robaina, somewhere near San Juan y Martinez, Pinar del Rio, Cuba
Conditions: Sunny and cool, 69 degrees

I join the Alexander's gang in the lobby of the Nacionale to board our private bus that will take us to the highlight of my Cuba visit- Vegas Robaina.  Although the trip could take as much as 3 hours one-way, it's worth the experience as I know it will be memorable.  We are destined for the "holy of holies" that hallowed ground in the Pinar where the best tobacco wrapper in the world is produced by the Godfather himself, Don Alejandro Robaina.

We all spread out in the oversized bus and catch up on our sleep after the Festival Habano Gala. It's been two years since my last visit and I had the fortune of spending time with Robaina and having him light one of his cigars for me to smoke.  I acquired over 50 of his boutique product (no fancy labels) which was the best cigar purchase I had ever made.  I still have some of them tucked away in the humidor at Telford's and want to make sure I replenish my stock.

As always, the Cuban guides get lost trying to find the plantation.  We eventually arrive and greeted by Carlito Robaina, Alejandro's 60 something son.  Hugs (and kisses) all around and we make our way to the outdoor dining area for a quick drink (Mulata de Cuba) and smoke.  Carlito and his son (Horoshi) explain that the old man is not well and cannot join us for lunch, BUT perhaps after lunch we can pay him a visit in his house.

The setting is ideal and old-world Cuba.  A small rural garden surrounds us with dogs and chickens wandering in and out.  Robaina's great grand daughters are playing dominoes as we are served roast chicken, pork, black beans and rice.  A typical lunch and somewhat bland, I approach the kitchen and they instantly provide me some locally grown organic habaneros....perfecto!

Carlito disappears with John and returns with some new sizes for us to "consider".  One is affectionately called The Beast!  And what a sight to behold, it's a 60 gauge monster.  Beautifully rolled the feel is exquisite and the smoke is, well, an incredible fusion of flavors.  
Carlito explains the tobacco has been cured for a minimum of 5 years and stored for an additional 2-3 years.  As I strain my jaws to place the big, large, dark puro into my mouth, I remind myself I am a well-adjusted heterosexual man who is perfectly comfortable with something this big in my mouth.
After lunch we enjoy our smokes and discuss Cuba, Obama, Cigars and how we all can't wait for when that damn embargo is dissolved.  Carlito beckons us to Alejandro's house and we make our way into meet with him.  


At first sight I was somewhat surprised as he is very frail and clearly not well.  At 91, his birthday is coming up on March 20th and everyone is looking forward to quiet celebration.  He does still have that twinkle in his eyes and is beaming, warm and inviting as we spend time.  His wife is hovering in the background with a watchful eye and we try to not make him too tired with all the excitement.  He asks us if we approve of his current stock and is there anything he can do to make them better...unbelievable!

This experience is all about the Robaina Family and their faith.  Faith in their religion and family.  Four generations living and working together,  building upon a proud legacy that started over 150 years ago with their plantation and the incredible gift they produce for  us to enjoy.  As I leave Alejandro to go and select some bundles, I know it will be some time before I return and feel honored to have visited with Alejandro and his family.
The drive back to Havana was long and quiet.  I was constantly admiring (and caressing) my newly purchased bundles, coveting them like some new birthday gift.  



Yet another rainstorm has begun.  I leave early tomorrow to return home and to reality.  My mind now switches to figuring out how I will transverse the Customs checkpoints with all the "gifts" I will be transporting....that's a whole other blog entry....


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