Inside La Corona Factory, Havana, Cuba

Date: February 25th, 2010
Time: 10:00 AM Eastern 
Location: La Corona Factory, Havana, Cuba

Conditions: Sunny and cool, 65 degrees

After one visits the Plantations it's the Factories where the real magic happens.  Anyone can visit the Partagas factory so today we are going to explore the largest factory in Cuba, La Corona.  It's not open to the public except for Festival attendees.

A single four story building houses over 900 people working on a myriad of brands and vitolas.  More than 40,000 cigars are produced each day and once inside, the noise of rollers and workers is deafening.  Screaming, hollering and even the odd dog barking adds to the excitement!

The efficiency, skill and precision of La Corona ensures the quality and beauty of their cigars.  As you'll see in the video, the construction of the cigar boxes is hypnotic.

It's the characters you meet that make a visit fascinating.  Here's a guy who just followed me around everywhere I went.  Is he Cuban secret service?  Factory Commandant? Nope, he's actually one of the Supervisors who had taken a liking to my shoes!!  BTW they are New Balance Cross Trainers.  On my exit he gave me a copy of the Festival magazine (free as part of the Festival) in exchange for my shoes.  Did he think I'd go barefoot for the rest of the day?


This factory is tightly monitored and so I didn't get accosted by peddlers.  One of the rollers winked at me however when she discovered I was making a video.  


We quickly finish up and begin the drive over to El Laguito, the most exclusive and secretive factory in Cuba.

Vegas Robaina

Date: February 27th, 2010
Time: 1:00 PM Eastern 
Location: Vegas Robaina, somewhere near San Juan y Martinez, Pinar del Rio, Cuba

Conditions: Sunny and cool, 69 degrees

I join the Alexander's gang in the lobby of the Nacionale to board our private bus that will take us to the highlight of my Cuba visit- Vegas Robaina.  Although the trip could take as much as 3 hours one-way, it's worth the experience as I know it will be memorable.  We are destined for the "holy of holies" that hallowed ground in the Pinar where the best tobacco wrapper in the world is produced by the Godfather himself, Don Alejandro Robaina.

We all spread out in the oversized bus and catch up on our sleep after the Festival Habano Gala. It's been two years since my last visit and I had the fortune of spending time with Robaina and having him light one of his cigars for me to smoke.  I acquired over 50 of his boutique product (no fancy labels) which was the best cigar purchase I had ever made.  I still have some of them tucked away in the humidor at Telford's and want to make sure I replenish my stock.

As always, the Cuban guides get lost trying to find the plantation.  We eventually arrive and greeted by Carlito Robaina, Alejandro's 60 something son.  Hugs (and kisses) all around and we make our way to the outdoor dining area for a quick drink (Mulata de Cuba) and smoke.  Carlito and his son (Horoshi) explain that the old man is not well and cannot join us for lunch, BUT perhaps after lunch we can pay him a visit in his house.

The setting is ideal and old-world Cuba.  A small rural garden surrounds us with dogs and chickens wandering in and out.  Robaina's great grand daughters are playing dominoes as we are served roast chicken, pork, black beans and rice.  A typical lunch and somewhat bland, I approach the kitchen and they instantly provide me some locally grown organic habaneros....perfecto!

Carlito disappears with John and returns with some new sizes for us to "consider".  One is affectionately called The Beast!  And what a sight to behold, it's a 60 gauge monster.  Beautifully rolled the feel is exquisite and the smoke is, well, an incredible fusion of flavors.  

Carlito explains the tobacco has been cured for a minimum of 5 years and stored for an additional 2-3 years.  As I strain my jaws to place the big, large, dark puro into my mouth, I remind myself I am a well-adjusted heterosexual man who is perfectly comfortable with something this big in my mouth.

After lunch we enjoy our smokes and discuss Cuba, Obama, Cigars and how we all can't wait for when that damn embargo is dissolved.  Carlito beckons us to Alejandro's house and we make our way into meet with him.  


At first sight I was somewhat surprised as he is very frail and clearly not well.  At 91, his birthday is coming up on March 20th and everyone is looking forward to quiet celebration.  He does still have that twinkle in his eyes and is beaming, warm and inviting as we spend time.  His wife is hovering in the background with a watchful eye and we try to not make him too tired with all the excitement.  He asks us if we approve of his current stock and is there anything he can do to make them better...unbelievable!

This experience is all about the Robaina Family and their faith.  Faith in their religion and family.  Four generations living and working together,  building upon a proud legacy that started over 150 years ago with their plantation and the incredible gift they produce for  us to enjoy.  As I leave Alejandro to go and select some bundles, I know it will be some time before I return and feel honored to have visited with Alejandro and his family.

The drive back to Havana was long and quiet.  I was constantly admiring (and caressing) my newly purchased bundles, coveting them like some new birthday gift.  



Yet another rainstorm has begun.  I leave early tomorrow to return home and to reality.  My mind now switches to figuring out how I will transverse the Customs checkpoints with all the "gifts" I will be transporting....that's a whole other blog entry....

Cohiba Behike Launch (2010)

Date: February 26th, 2010
Time: 8:00 PM Eastern 
Location: ParExpo, Havana, Cuba

Conditions: Cool and breezy, 63 degrees

THE EVENT

It's downright freezing tonight in Havana as I have a quick mojito at the Nacionale before the Gala Event of the 2010 Festival Habano.  It's the launch of "Cohiba's Best Kept Secret", the marketing slogan that's been publicized for months (talk about an oxy-moron) of  a new super-premium cigar.

THE HISTORY

Cohiba was the first name given to tobacco.  When Christopher Columbus arrived in Cuba in 1492 he saw that the Taino Indians would smoke rolled leaves which they called "cohiba" following a ritual celebration.  That ceremony was conducted by a highly respected person of the tribe who was called "Behike".

THE CIGARS

The Cohiba Behike is being represented as the most exclusive line of Cohiba cigars.  It will be produced in extremely limited qualities due to the blend being, for the first time, the "Medio Tiempo", a leaf that provides exceptional character and flavor.  The leaf is very scarce as it is harvested from the two upper leaves of  a sun-grown plant.  Not all plants produce both top leaves and availability is dependent on the dedication, care and attention of each plantation in San Juan y Martinez.

The Behike ring bears the Cohiba Indian head in an embossed paper, including an exclusive security hologram in each one that authenticates these exclusive Habanos.  Each one of the vitolas comes in 10-cigar lacquered box which is a collectors item in itself.

The selected formats are exclusive to Cohiba Behike.  Their heavy ring gauge, in addition to providing excellent burn, will allow the smoker to appreciate and enjoy all the intensity and flavors offered by this very exquisite blend.  

The Behike formats are:

• BHK52:  Ring gauge 52 X 4.69 inches
• BHK 54: Ring gauge 54 X 5.67 inches
• BHK56:  Ring gauge 56 X 6.54 inches

OPINION
When they are released next month, it is rumored that each cigar will retail for $100USD. If these cigars are limited, the actual market price could be a lot higher.  I smoked my first Behike the other day and I will post my review soon.  It is an exceptional smoke (probably better than the Grand Reserva's) and I think Habanos has made a strategic error.  Even the wealthy are watching their pesos, pennies and cents and this extravagance doesn't help.  Frankly, I'd like to see them produce another Siglo VI, perhaps a maduro at a price point that attracts a new group of enthusiasts.

El Templete Restaurant - Cohiba Siglo VI (2009)

Produced: 2009
Tobacco Provence: Vuelta Abajo 
Factory: Partagas
Length: 7 5/8 inches
Ring Gauge: 49
Acquired: Gifted at 2010 Habanos Festival

THE LOCATION
El Templete

Avenida del Puerto #12, corner of Narciso Lopez
Tel. +53 (7) 866 8807
Map

El Templete is a monument in Havana that pays homage to the place where the foundation of the town of San Cristóbal de la Habana was celebrated in 1519. The monument consists of bust of Christopher Columbus (he'd later stumble onto the Americas) and three canvases painted by Jean Baptiste Vermay. It is a Neoclassic building, typical example of colonial architecture.  Close to the Templete, there is a column which replaces a silk-cotton tree, under which the first mass and the first Council of Havana were celebrated.  This is NOT where I had dinner!

The El Templete where I had dinner is the jewel in Old Havana's culinary crown. Its Gallego chef's Arkaitz Etxarte sophisticatedly simple spin on traditional ingredients that result in incredible duck, lobster and dark chocolate brownies that are infused with some kind of spices. The restaurant is at the harbor in Old Havana and make sure to get a table inside but next to the windows so that you can view the boat traffic but escape the fumes from the trucks and buses that pass by.


THE SMOKE
I know this will sound flippant, but people smoke Siglo VI's in Havana as though they are Marlboro Reds!  In my opinion after witnessing their manufacture and sampling many of them over the years, they are consistently the best smoke an enthusiast can trust.  The care and attention to detail in producing these cigars is a source of much pride by Habanos.

During courses I light up a local S VI that was given to me at one of the Conference sessions.  Nobody thinks twice about lighting up inside a restaurant during a meal.  Compared to the barbaric restrictions now enforced in Australia and the US, this is simply heaven.
The local S IV is excellent.  Well rolled, easy draw and the flavor is milder and still complex enough to be interesting.  They retail in Havana at the date of this blog for 11 CUC which is approximately $7 USD compared to the black market price north of $25 back in the US.

Rating: (3) VERY GOOD

(5) Classic, (4) Outstanding, (3) Very Good, (2) Average, (1) Don’t Bother

Humidor: SMOKE NOW

Smoke Now, Smoke Soon:1–3 Years, Put Away:3–7 Years, Vault:7-12 Years, Inheritance Gift:12+ Years